Farmers’ Markets

Farmers’ markets selling fresh food directly to consumers have been popular for some time now, and by the looks of it, their popularity is still on the rise.

These days more people than ever seem to enjoy ‘going to the market’ and why not? Markets are, after all, also among the oldest human social occasions, and they represent both economic and festive value.

Farmers’ markets are specific types of markets, defined as public spaces where farmers and artisanal food processors regularly sell their products directly to consumers from market stalls.

They are different from other food markets in that they represent a direct relationship between the producer and the consumer.

For the most part those participating in these markets are farmers or small artisanal producers who grow and/or process their own products. They are not resellers, although some farmers’ markets do permit resellers. These farmers and artisanal producers are usually family businesses and use very short food supply chains whilst controlling the entire value chain of their production.

These characteristics conform to the core values of a growing number of consumers who seek out and support alternatives to the existing, commercial agri-food system. This preference for the alternative food networks has been captured by local food trends and movements that emphasise support for local produce, slow food, nose-to-tail eating, farm-to-table production and urban agriculture.

Although food markets have been around for as long as people have been trading, contemporary farmers markets are not just ‘economic spaces’ in the classic sense. They are also social and political spaces as farmers’ markets are part of the contemporary world’s emerging alternative agri-food networks (AFNs).

Within these networks emphasis is placed on a number of features that are absent from the commercial agri-food system. For example: greater transparency through full access to information about the product and production process; the pursuit of social, ecological and economic sustainability; shared social responsibility and greater emphasis on moral and ethical values; and greater control over the production chain and more power in the value chain.

But are we even aware of these important matters when we visit these markets? Or do we simply see them as events with festive value?

Over the course of the holiday I visited quite a few markets; to contemplate and discuss these and other matters; to eat and taste; and to have fun of course. But mostly I visit markets for the stories: how it started; what makes it worthwhile; what the future may hold. If I am interested in the pain and the glory behind each small venture, I am slightly obsessed with the creativity that is required to make such small ventures work. The inspiring passion, and the heart-breaking setbacks.

Walking in amongst the rows of freshly baked breads and pastries, smoked and cured meats, toward the kitchen in the corner that’s busy frying eggs and bacon for monstrous slices of sourdough bread covered wall-to-wall with fresh, rich butter gets me every time. It always feels like my last walk to freedom – provided that it is the right market of course.

I often assess the quality of food sold at market by four items: bread, cheese, cured meat (charcuterie) and sausages. For me these are not only the most fulfilling things to eat, but they are also the most difficult to do right, and thus can be considered true tests of genuine artisanal skills.

Somehow, I also feel that vendors of such items count among the most creative, generous and most passionate people to be found in the alternative agri-food networks. Perhaps it is because so much can and does go wrong with producing said items, that they try harder and always want to learn more. Trust me there are few craftsmen as willing to talk shop to strangers than a well-seasoned sausage maker.

Although the number of farmers’ markets has increased in Namibia over the past few years, its growth has been slow and uncoordinated. There may be a number of possible reasons for this:

• Most communities are too small to sustain large markets. This is borne out by the fact that whatever farmers’ markets exist, exist around and near the larger urban settlements of the capital city and the coast. Markets serve little purpose if they cannot attract the right consumers in sufficient numbers to make it a sustainable business.

• Namibia does not have a culture of artisanal food production and as such we lack interest and skills. Those who produce artisanal food on small scale do so for personal use and not for sale at markets. This is changing, but very slowly.

• Farmers and small producers still prefer formal marketing channels and outlets such as abattoirs, supermarkets and greengrocers partly because there are not enough alternative outlets such as farmers’ markets, and partly because these are more convenient and even profitable.

• Consumers still prefer supermarkets as these are more convenient, cheaper and offer greater variety products at varied prices. Price conscious consumers may not value the social, environmental, health and political importance of these alternative networks as much as they value opportunities for bulk buying at discounted prices.

• Namibia does not have a large street food scene and as a result the current standard of food produced may be substandard and vendors may lack the technical and financial skills needed to produce quality food and run a sustainable small food business. In addition, the business environment may be disabling – city by-laws may be restrictive and there are not many opportunities for training and funding for food entrepreneurs and their small food businesses.

• Maybe Namibians view markets as festive occasions rather than events with important social, economic and political value.

I have yet to meet a food vendor at a farmers’ market that has made a fortune from his or her market stall. Most have multiple income streams outside the market and need them to survive financially. For such folks the market is more about innovation, testing new ideas and receiving direct feedback from their customers on important matters such as prices, packaging, product quality and marketing.

Almost always these vendors have websites where in-depth additional information is provided, and orders can be placed. These are crucial as it allows the vendor to retain full control over the entire value chain.

Could 2020 be the year in which more Namibians commit to support our farmers and small food entrepreneurs? Perhaps you can start by visiting a farmers’ market. Make friends with some vendors and learn about their journey. Or perhaps learn a food skill and become a vendor yourself. You would not make much money (initially at least) but you would be more creative – and that, in my book, is a worthwhile resolution for the new year.

• 2.2 kilograms pork (belly and shoulder)

• 7 grams white pepper

• 7 grams ground ginger

• 7 grams nutmeg

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