The magical, mystical Brandberg made accessible

MEASURING approximately 2 600 metres at its highest peak, with 900 sites containing over 50 000 rock paintings, the Brandberg Mountain offers an ideal escape for those looking to reconnect with the country’s history or those looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Located near the small town of Uis in the Kunene Region, the massive Brandberg covers an area of approximately 650 square kilometres and can be seen from a distance. The mountain, which is circular in shape and has an approximate circumference of 140 kilometres, is just one of a number of prime tourist attractions in an area which is gifted with beautiful and interesting places to visit.On a recent trip to the Brandberg organised by the Namibia Tourism Board for a number of local journalists, I was lucky enough to be chosen and got to experience one of Namibia’s most amazing natural features, so massive that it left me feeling insignificant.The Damara name for the Brandberg is Dâures, which means burnt mountain, and from a distance the dark colouring of the mountain, which appears almost black at times, gives the impression of a piece of earth which has been scorched by fire.The Brandberg is a site of great significance to the San people, believed to be the descendants of the first inhabitants of the area, and the mountain’s main attraction is the prehistoric ‘White Lady’ rock painting.The ‘White Lady’ painting is located approximately 2,5 kilometres from an entrance set up by local guides, and access to the mountain is forbidden without a local guide.A total of nine guides – all of whom grew up and live in the area – provide guided walks to the site where the ‘White Lady’ painting is located. Well-spoken, professionally trained and friendly, the guides share their knowledge of local plant and animal life, pointing out leopard tracks in the sand on one occasion.The 2,5 kilometre walk to the site takes roughly 40 minutes over rough terrain along ancient watercourses threading through the mountain.The ‘White Lady’ painting is located on a small rock face surrounded by many other rock paintings, under a small overhang in the Tsisab ravine at the foot of the Brandberg.The name ‘White Lady’ is a misnomer, as the painting is actually of a man – a white-painted shaman or traditional healer, explained Collin Uiseb, our guide. Uiseb told us that a shaman possessed supernatural powers and could transform himself into animals such as oryx, kudu and giraffe.Uiseb said he and other local guides started working with foreign archeologists as far back as 1993, which was when they started providing guided tours to people visiting the area.Uiseb told us that the early San people used the rock paintings as a means of communication, adding that the paintings served as a means to convey information to later generations, such as hunting techniques and traditional rites.At present, the Brandberg has over 900 rock art sites containing more than 50 000 paintings, but Uiseb said many other sites are yet to be discovered. The walk to the ‘White Lady’ painting is not the only activity on offer at the Brandberg, as one can also take a guided hike to the summit, about 2 600 metres high. It can be approached from any direction, with the approach determining the difficulty of the hike.Uiseb said the hike to the summit can be completed in just one day, but one could also opt to do it over two or three days. According to Collin, the two- or three-day hikes are the best because then one can experience sunset and a sunrise while out on the mountain. If there is no fog, one can see the lights of Swakopmund, Langstrand and Walvis Bay from the mountain’s highest peak, Uiseb told us.Our group spent only three hours at the mountain, taking the walk to the ‘White Lady’ painting under the scorching Namibian sun, but one thing is certain: I will return to that corner of the earth and I will climb that mountain.

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