IT was a bit of a test getting to the new Nkasa Lupala lodge, nestled between Mudumu and Mamili national parks. First the bridge was down.
This simple pole construction is a lifeline to the lodge, Mamili National Park, and to Wuparo Conservancy which has a joint venture agreement with the lodge’s Italian owners. Within hours plans had been made in the conservancy office for its repair, but that was no help to the tourist couple from South Africa.The river was a metre deep – just about bonnet height – and it was a bit of a risk with the hire car, but in they plunged, and thanks to the firm sand on the river bed, out they came. Then there were the elephants.A leafy green tree was lying right across the sandy track.The culprits were soon to be found on the other side of the tree, and of course that’s just what every tourist wants to see. But elephants are wild animals, and these ones were not to be hurried.There is only one track through the dense bush to the park and the lodge, and this one was occupied by elephants showering with flood water and powdering themselves with sand. The young calves were just rolling in the mud.A good opportunity for a photo, and a three hour wait.But sitting it out was worth it, and judging by reports from the conservancy staff, the ten year wait to find an investor to build a lodge right on the doorstep of Mamili National Park was worth it as well.Up to now, Wuparo’s main tourist income has come from a community camp site – Rupara.The site offers simple ablutions next to the river, and takes just N$60 per person. Not a big money spinner. Wuparo needed a lodge, and for that it needed an investor. Enter the Micheletti family.The Michelettis come from Italy, and the father ran a construction business in West Africa.’We came here as visitors in 1995 and fell in love with the area,’ says Simone Micheletti, the lodge manager. It’s not hard to see why. The river gives way to reeds, grass and trees, and lions hunt buffalo in plain view of the breakfast table.The Acting Deputy Chairperson of Wuparo is ‘Shine’ Limbo, who negotiated on behalf of the conservancy.’It was a big job, a hard job,’ he recalls, ‘with a lot of small pieces to put into place.’Limbo is a rural farmer, and hard nosed commercial deals were not his speciality. He says that negotiations with a previous investor had failed because they were not open about their projections and empowerment plan.But if Limbo and his colleagues were fresh from the fields, how did they become so savvy while dealing with the Michelettis – experienced business people? That’s where the IRDNC and WWF came in.Reuben Mafati provides business training and advice to Caprivi conservancies from the IRDNC (Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation) office in Katima Mulilo.Further technical support comes from the WWF office in Namibia. Over the years the NGOs have helped conservancies to negotiate contracts with investors building lodges and camp sites. These are called Joint Venture Agreements, and they amount to much more than the money a conservancy might earn.When the deal was done, it was a good one, including the indirect benefits. The Michelettis agreed on an initial forty percent of the staff coming from the area, with training to increase the number as time went on.In fact, eleven out of the twelve employees come from the nearest village, Sangwali. The lodge deal includes a set-aside fund for training at FGASA (Field Guide Association of Southern Africa) and training for kitchen staff.But most important is money. The lodge pays the conservancy a fixed amount monthly, and on top of that a percentage of the turnover.That’s where the deal gets interesting, and the Millennium Challenge Account (MCA) steps in. The MCA is giving direct support to 29 selected conservancies in the north of Namibia, with an emphasis on training in business skills and marketing.Wuparo will only do well out of the lodge if the number of tourists increases. The MCA is providing a grant of a million Namibian dollars to Wuparo.Wuparo will lend the money to the lodge, which in turn will spend it on marketing. As the turnover increases, so does revenue to the conservancy – call that the interest on the loan. At the end of the agreement the loan will be written off.Will it work? Simone Micheletti is sure it will. The lodge has ten rooms and he is aiming at experienced tourists who have been to Africa before and know what to expect.’It’s a destination,’ he says. ‘We want to keep it simple, but exclusive, for people who want to stay in the wilderness.’ Wild, yes – and beautiful. The area is lush with grass, reeds, and the birds and wildlife that inhabit this corner of Caprivi’s wetland paradise. He looks out across the conservancy land and says: ‘For us it’s a dream come true.’And for the conservancy? The members of the management committee believe they have done well. As ‘Shine’ Limbo puts it: ‘Compared to other lodges in Caprivi, this is a good deal.’ So good, in fact, that after ten years the lodge buildings will belong to the conservancy. At that point Wuparo and Nkasa Lupala will negotiate a new deal about how to run the lodge.But there is more at stake. The eco-system and the wildlife it supports has to be protected. That’s the conservancy’s job. With increased income from the lodge the salaries for the game guards will be secure. Wuparo is giving up land that could be used for farming, and making it available for wildlife. In return, the lodge is paying for a conservation service. It’s a deal both sides are happy with.
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