The Culture Of Kaapse Kerrievis

Cape Town is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, diverse demographics and culinary arts influenced by various traditions throughout the years.

A dish that finds itself at the heart of the Coloured community, Kaapse kerrievis, is not only a popular entrée in the region, but throughout South Africa and the Coloured diaspora in Namibia.

Also known as Cape pickled fish, or ingelegde vis, this unique and flavourful dish is a cultural must-have at Easter time, often served with fresh hot cross buns or homemade baked bread.

The history of kerrievis is as equally delightful as it is delectable. In the mid-17th century, the Dutch East India Company, represented by Jan van Riebeeck, established a trading post at the Cape of Good Hope. With him were slaves from Dutch territories in the East Indies who through many years of integration with Europeans and other African slaves and natives gave birth to a nation known today as Cape Coloureds, Cape Malays or simply just Coloureds.

Cape Town-based cook and author Cass Abrahams, in an interview with Le Creuset, mentions the aftermath of the Group Areas Act, which forced Coloured people to live in the same neighbourhoods and was the birth of various cultural exchanges.

“Our heritage was really mixed, and there was an extraordinary tolerance of and appreciation for what everyone brought into the community. We all mingled and influences worked both ways,” says Abrahams. She notes that many of the mission schools, both Catholic and Protestant, were attended by a mix of children regardless of whether they were Catholic, Anglican or Muslim.

Although eating pickled fish over Easter has its origins in the Catholic church, which didn’t allow meat to be eaten on a Friday, the method of pickling was born out of necessity. Introduced by the Malay slaves, pickling became popular in the days before refrigerators as a way of preserving food.

“Traditionally, many Cape people went to camp over the Easter weekend,” says Abrahams. “They took food with them that did not need to be refrigerated – typically pickled fish, which could be kept in glass bottles or earthenware jars for up to a week. In those days fish was plentiful and affordable. When I was a child my granny used to make it: We only ate homemade pickled fish and hot cross buns on Good Friday,” she adds.

According to chef Heinrich ‘H’ Koen of House of H on Loop Street in Cape Town, the secret of delicious Kaapse kerrievis is in the marinating time.

“You can make the sauce and cook the fish on the same day, but the fish should marinate for a minimum of 24 hours. It can marinate for up to three days before eating, especially if the fridge is on quite a cold setting. You could make the onion pickle in advance because it lasts a good two weeks if refrigerated properly,” he tells capetownmagazine.com.

“Cold pickled fish with warm hot cross buns and a brick of butter. That’s all, then you’re good to go,” he says.

Kaapse kerrievis involves traditional Malay spices such as whole peppercorns, cloves, allspice, bay leaves, ground cumin, coriander, turmeric, masala and slices of garlic brewed in vinegar. To thicken the sauce add a paste of Maizena.

Easter is an important time in the Christian calendar, but is also a great way for family to unite and cherish the small moments, and pass on traditions and recipes.

While spending your long weekend at home under lockdown next week, why not ask your auntie, granny or mother to teach you how to make this seasonal delicacy?

– additional information from lecreuset.co.za and capetownmagazine.com.

– JonathanSasha on social media

In an age of information overload, Sunrise is The Namibian’s morning briefing, delivered at 6h00 from Monday to Friday. It offers a curated rundown of the most important stories from the past 24 hours – occasionally with a light, witty touch. It’s an essential way to stay informed. Subscribe and join our newsletter community.