If everything goes according to plan, anti-poaching ranger John Nepolo’s grandchildren won’t only see rhinos, lions and elephants in books or on the internet but in real and remarkable life.
It’s the coolest part of a scorching afternoon at Etosha Heights Private Reserve and the young man speaks shyly about protecting Namibia’s natural heritage for future generations before joining his fellows loading packs and patrol gear into the cream Toyota bakkie that will carry them into the night.
Special ranger Wilbard Shipopyeni, who takes pride in his team’s success at reducing poaching in the area, says it’s not uncommon for his unit to sleep in the bush. “We are here to protect the game and to secure the Etosha Heights reserve,” he says looking piercingly out over the property which borders the Etosha National Park in north-western Namibia for approximately 70 kilometres and sprawls for 60 000 hectares of verdant, wildlife-rich savannah.
At the anti-poaching base situated a short drive from the luxurious Safarihoek lodge, a kudu head hangs as a frank reminder of the reserve’s former incarnation.
Once a hunting reserve replete with all the memorabilia befitting the sport, the kudu head is one of a few artefacts still on site since Etosha Heights’ transformation from hunting destination to upscale, understated haunt for photographic safari in 2016.
The move to conservation is one that defines Natural Selection, which is a collection of owner-operated safari camps and mobile safaris in Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Etosha Heights Private Reserve, which consists of Safarihoek, Etosha Mountain Lodge and Safari House, is one of various reserves in the Natural Selection portfolio which strive to be active participants in Africa’s wildlife conservation solutions.
“Photographic safari is a renewable resource,” says Natural Selection managing director Ally Karaerua, who has relished the wildlife’s return to the transformed reserve as they learn the telltale click echoing across the savannah is no longer one of a gun but a camera.
The giraffe, springbok, wildebeest, flurry of birds, rhino and the trio of zebras drinking from a pan at the reserve’s marvellous two-storey photographic hide as well as the elephant tracks one sees sunk deep into the grassland are testimony to a more trusting nature.
“In the interest of increasing the population of black rhinos, the Namibian government has given some rhinos to this reserve for conservation and we have a very good anti-poaching unit which looks after all the animals,” says Karaerua, who introduces the anti-poaching rangers with pride.
“These guys are really just wonderful. Laying their lives on the line, patrolling at night, patrolling on foot just to make sure that at least we conserve these animals both for tourism, the economy and also for future generations,” he says.
“We are proud of our success. We hope that everybody around, even in the neighbouring farms, will follow suit as we think that we can take more economic advantage out of our wild through photographic safaris rather than through hunting, even if hunting has a place in conservation.”
After removing all the hunting relics from the premises and replacing the animal trophies with a collection of inspiring fine art photography celebrating the reserve’s wildlife, Etosha Heights, now hunting free, shines at what seems like the edge of the world.
And despite the comfort of delicious meals, a sparkling pool facing 180 degrees of uninterrupted nature as well as Safarihoek’s large, air-conditioned rooms named after indigenous trees, the edge of the world is quiet.
“Solar energy is clean energy and there is no noise, which is always appreciated when one comes into nature,” says Karaerua as we set out for an early morning game drive and pass the reserve’s line of solar panels making full use of Namibia’s copious sunshine.
The silence is part of Etosha Heights Private Reserve’s attraction.
No generators hum to life to fuel the air conditioning or the geysers, effectively breaking the serene spell. Safarihoek’s 11 chalets are but a boutique break in 60 000 hectares of unspoiled nature and there are no crowds or an excess of safari vehicles sullying the scenes.
The awe-inspiring photographs of zebras sipping at watering holes and black rhinos browsing in the brush just a few metres away practically take themselves and the reserve’s commitment to shoot with a camera rather than a gun can’t help but sink into your soul.
“We define luxury more as space and privacy,” says Karaerua, who sees far beyond the delicious but familiar flourishes of sunsets spent sipping Namibian gin between mopane trees, the heavens and the hyenas, the indulgence of outdoor rain showers, a panoramic wine cellar and each guest’s large private deck overlooking zebra, giraffes, elephants and wildebeest roaming majestically free.
Luxury, as Karaerua says, is indeed space and privacy and Etosha Heights Private Reserve has each in spades.
That and the sheer wealth of animals which roam the land, some even visiting from Etosha National Park, as Karaerua raises a toast to the reserve’s evolution from hunting to photographic safari, stating simply and with a smile…
“We’ve never looked back.”
Visit naturalselection.travel for more information.
– martha@namibian.com.na; Martha Mukaiwa on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter; marthamukaiwa.com
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